Saturday 29 October 2005

eight-year-old dilemmas (part two)


So, where were we? Oh yes: the eight-year-olds were losing their fear of me and transforming into little human express trains. And I was about to tell you about Dilemma The Second.

Okay. Well, it first surfaced due to a mutual interest shared by two of my students, Anna and Sergey.

Anna is a bright kid, prone to getting bored and pouty when other pupils don't match her pace, but basically okay. Sergei is … well, a boy. I don’t much like boys, and never have – they nearly all seem to be suffering from some kind of learning disability, on top of which I frankly just find them annoying. But as boys go, Sergei is no worse than most. There are even times when his masculine delinquency gives way to something else; a sort of witless "hello there!" smile that's as dumb as rocks, yet almost charming in its complete lack of reserve. I still much prefer the girls, though. I guess it's just a variation of the dogs vs. cats argument, and (with apologies to dog owners who are reading this) I'm always gonna come down on the feline side of the fence.

Anyway, the “mutual interest” these two micro-pupils share in common is as follows: they simply adore kicking the crap out of each other. This isn’t a terribly desirable thing to have going on during any lesson, but a while ago there came a point when Anna's and Sergei's squabbles went from being merely disruptive to being cause for more serious concern.

Some time in late September, at the start of one of my lessons, the Anna-Sergei monster was whizzing around the classroom in full flight – chasing its own tail, darting between chairs, dodging tables and so on – when suddenly its Anna-half decided to try going through a chair rather than around it. She fell forward and ended up lying prone across two seats, with her head and feet dangling less than half a metre from the floor. As the capsized Anna lay there trying to work out how to fix the vertical hold, Sergei continued to beat her over the head with his pencil case (or possibly hers). It was pretty much your typical no-holds-barred, psychotic eight-year-old deathmatch.

Here’s the thing, though: on their way through the maze of classroom furniture, both halves of the monster had bumped themselves on just about every single desk, chair or other obstacle in their paths. In doing so, they’d fuelled one of my ongoing concerns about Muscovites – namely that they sometimes appear to have a very poor sense of direction &/or are genetically pre-disposed towards clumsiness. I won’t try to justify my claim now, though it’ll probably come up again in later entries. For now, you’ll just have to accept the premise that the townsfolk here have an extraordinary talent for bumping into things (most notably other people and their cars*).

But getting back to Anna and Sergei: she eventually made it to her feet, and I could see that their attempts to kill one another were about to resume at an even more intense level. My usual threats and admonitions were having no effect, and their in-built clumsiness had me convinced that within seconds I’d be reaching for my phrasebook to look up the Russian for “I need to phone an ambulance”. So what was I to do?

What I did was this: I walked behind Sergei, stuck my arms underneath his shoulders and forcibly lifted him through the air, all the way back to his desk.

It worked, too.

Now, perhaps my experience of how grown men are supposed to behave toward small children back in Paranoid Delusional Land** has made me a little too concerned about having physical contact with young students. Because, you see, I was expecting angry phone calls from parents after this incident. I thought Sergei would be so upset to have been man-handled by a teacher that the story would make it home to mama and papa, and I’d end up having to justify myself to the school director, possibly copping a written warning or even having my contract terminated if my school didn’t accept the “it was the only way I could think of to ensure their physical safety” defence. Mentally I'd begun packing my bags already, just in case. But nope. Nothing at all. Sergei didn’t seem remotely disturbed by what had happened. I'm sure he's forgotten it.

It was during the very next lesson that I realised something I never would have suspected: these children actually seem to crave proximity to the teacher. This fact dawned on me all-of-a-sudden while I was reading my eight-year-olds a story from the Teacher’s Book - or rather, while I was trying to. Perched on a chair at the front of the room, I was completely failing to get anyone’s attention, so out of grim determination I decided to go and sit at the desk of a student called Nastya and read my book directly to her. Anticipated result: I might get one student to actually listen, which would've been one more than I’d had up to that point. But when I did this, the psychological effect was stunning; before I knew it, there were four littl’uns crowding around me, sitting on tables and resting their hands on my shoulders. It was like Story Time with Uncle Anthony! I really expected one of them to push their way up onto my lap at any moment. Very surreal.

Cut forward about two weeks to a bar in the downtown district of Kitai Gorad. Here I sat drinking with a few teachers and students, recovering from the Sergiev Posad débacle (see my earlier entry). I found myself sitting next to a teacher who I knew had quite a bit of experience with 'young learners', so I told her my reservations about physical contact with students. She was astonished: “I’m touching my students virtually the whole time. It’s essential.” I then went on to tell her about the Story Time incident, at which she exhibited no surprise whatsoever.


The upshot of all this is that I now try to remain within striking distance of my Little People whenever I can, and they often decide to lean in close or just stick out a hand and grab me. (Example: you'll notice in the photo here that the ever-delightful Zusha has her hand in mine. That was her idea.) It still feels pretty weird at this point, but I'm sure I'll get used to it. And it has made quite a difference to the effectiveness of my lessons.

So there you go. Barely two months into my new career as a poor man’s Rhys Muldoon, and I’ve survived two dilemmas already. Undoubtedly they're just the first of many to come. I’m still a long way from comfortable in a classroom full of eight-year-olds popping out of their skins like corn kernels in a hot covered pan. But I’m also vaguely proud not to have crumbled entirely (yet). And I must admit, there have been moments when some of the little vultures have flipped the switch to Cute-as-Hell Mode and disarmed me completely.

Actually, to be truthful,there are one or two pupillini who melt my steely detachment like this on a fairly regular basis, notably the terrible twinlets Zusha and Ksusha. Two days ago, for example, sweet and silly Ksusha approached me during class and motioned for me to lean in close to her. Evidently she had a secret to share, which was delivered behind a cupped hand: “Entoni … today my birthday.”

Exactly why one of my mini-pupils would choose to reveal this to me I don't know, but frankly that would’ve been plenty of cuteness for one day. After class, though, Susha approached me again, this time with hands held behind her back. I’m thinking “Oh no, is she going to show me a birthday gift someone gave her? Will I need to feign being impressed by something truly awful?”. But instead, Susha made a short announcement: "Entoni, preee-zent". Then from behind her she whipped out an enormous box of chocolate wafers for me. I was very nearly speechless in two languages!

I actually sat the wafers on my desk, knowing I’d need them later in the day - not to eat, but to glance at whenever I felt like strangling members of my nightmarish Tues/Thur adult class. Or to put that another way: I used something symbolic of my eight-year-olds to get myself through an adult class. Bit of a turnaround, no?

Anyway, after she'd given me the wafers, Susha did proceed to show-and-tell, producing from her school bag a rather odd-looking doll. I asked if I could take a picture and she happily posed with her birthday gift. If you can stare at the resulting photo (left) for five seconds without feeling your heart soften at least a little bit - well, you're doing better than me.

Meanwhile, as the eight-year-old situation slowly improves, Moscow's wider adult population (or at least the white 'European' portion thereof) has been offering me ample practice in dealing with juvenile behaviour. I mean, in the two months I've been here, I’ve met some remarkably lovely and big-hearted people who've shown me that the famed 'slavic hospitality' I'd heard about is not mythical. For this fact, and to those people, I am hugely grateful. But then you have the other, less pleasant face of Moscow. It's this that I want to tell you about now.

A good way to see this face is to ride the Metro. You frequently find yourself resisting the urge to turn on other commuters and say stern, motherly things like “Do you really think that shoving will get you there any faster?” and “Oh for heaven’s sake, would you just grow up and consider someone else for a change?” Likewise in the classroom, there are at least one or two adult students who could easily go pout-for-pout with the worst of my teens and tinies. And attempting to converse with most people in 'service' industries here - like, say, the staff at the local supermarket - is like trying to make cats excited and enthusiastic about bath time.

There are exceptions, of course, and the kindness of strangers has saved me on more than one occasion. Still, the unfriendly public persona of your average Muscovite is a notable fact of day-to-day life. Acquiring the patience and stamina to deal calmly with this kind of childish crap from adults is therefore a matter of daily necessity.

I imagine this will help me out enormously as a teacher, and possibly even as a human being. It also makes me think that perhaps – in Moscow at least – spending a few hours each week surrounded by a bunch of eight-year-olds isn't that much of a special dilemma after all ;-)






* Statistic: Moscow has approximately the same population as London, but six times the number of road accidents.

**My suggested new name for the territory previously known as Australia, after four years of the War on Terror, eight under Howard and decades in the vice-like grip of insurance company lawyers.



Friday 7 October 2005

eight-year-old dilemmas (part one)


Hello. A slight change of pace this week: for the benefit of those who’ve been asking, here's where I finally stop gawping at landmarks, street vendors and wallpaper and start telling you a little about what I actually do here. If you’re the kind of person who can’t think of anything less interesting than the minute details of someone else’s job, I can empathise; feel free to skip this entry.

*ahem*

Ignoring all considerations of narrative good taste, let's start with a flashback. Picture Anthony sitting in an office tower in York Street Sydney, in a relaxed, civilised round-table atmosphere, studying for his CELTA certificate. It's the beginning of 2005, and twelve months of fairly intense introspection have led Anthony to decide that this year he will finally give his life a long overdue shake-up. He will stop procrastinating; he will start making some of the Big Changes he's been putting to one side; he will set events rolling as soon as possible, and try to give them a momentum of their own so that the brakes can't be applied later when the usual doubts begin to surface. All of which will hopefully drag life into its next ‘phase’, whatever that turns out to be.

Hence the teaching course, among other things.

A brief explanation for those of you who haven’t come across the acronym: CELTA is the piece of paper you need to convince prospective employers that you’re fit to teach English. Its full name is the Cambridge Certificate of English Language Teaching to Adults.

I'd like you to take particular note of that last bit – the word after "to". It roughly translates as “people to whom one can probably try to teach some things without sustaining permanent damage to one's sanity”.

But returning to Flashbackland, there I sat in York Street, learning how to teach adults to speak English. Training with adults. Teaching adults. Giving my adult students lots of useful adult exercises, choc-full of useful adult vocab relating to useful adult subjects, to which they responded in a sane, adult manner whenever I formed a sentence beginning with a phrase like like “What I’d like you to do now is …”.

Now cut to six months later, as Anthony rides the Metro out to South Butovo (“the outer administrative limit of Moscow”, according to one website I visited recently), assumes the blackboard position, and sizes up his first class ...


... of eight-year-olds!

Anthony [to self]: “What the hell am I supposed to do with all these little people?”

Answer [from self]:     “No freaking idea.”

I did have one thing working for me, though. As luck would have it, this class had been together for a year and had already worked their way through a whole textbook together. So Anthony goes straight to Page One of Book Two, and reads the cues:

Anthony [to class]:      “Touch your nose.”

Blank stares.

Anthony:                       “Point to the door.”

Nothing. Students evidently pre-occupied with eight-year-old thoughts (most likely the equivalent of “What's this scary man with the beard doing here, and what the hell is he pointing at?”).

Anthony:                       “Stand on your chair.”

Seconds pass. A silence so absolute, my brain starts supplying the soundtrack: a whispering breeze blowing through a ghost town. Imaginary tumbleweeds begin rolling across the classroom.


Then finally, signs of movement: a student lifts her hand, seemingly in the direction of her nose. Is this a delayed response to the earlier “touch your nose” request? Could be. Or maybe she’s just planning to do some house-cleaning. I have to know. I turn to look at her. She stops, puts her hand down, resumes pouting. Silence envelops the room once more, like a metaphorical Red Sea onto a swarm of figurative Egyptian guys with chariots.

And so went most of my first lesson.

The second one was marginally better, but still awful. I really, really needed to seek some guidance from my ADOS (Assistant Director of Studies) about this, and quickly. I was getting absolutely nowhere with these little monsters.

To cut a long meeting short, the ADOS’ main piece of advice was this: "to 'activate' young learners, it's often necessary to introduce a more kinaesthetic component into your lesson plans". Translation: get them moving. “Hmmm”, I thought. “Good idea.”

It worked, too.

Four weeks and eight lessons later, the classroom atmosphere has changed beyond recognition. Having lost their fear of the Scary Bearded Man, and seemingly invigorated by the knowledge that learning doesn’t have to entail being tied to a straight-backed chair and drilled by scary bearded women, these kiddies appear to be having a rather wonderful time in my classes. Even better: while that’s going on, they’re also beginning to retain small quantities of information about the English language. They’re running around the room to find numbers I’ve ‘hidden’ in far corners; they’re running up to the board to draw the time onto clock faces or to write “fifteen balloons” next to my pictures (although they still pronounce it “fiveteen”, and I still can’t draw balloons that don’t resemble sperm). They’re running straight at me as I walk around dropping slips of paper with vocab written on them, making me feel like a Gulliver-sized referee in a football scrum full of midgets. They’re running, they’re running, they’re running … 

... they're running me ragged!

Still, at least I’ve more or less solved the first dilemma I faced with my eight-year-olds. I can safely say that they’re well and truly “activated” now ;-)

I’ll give you the lowdown on eight-year-old dilemma #2 (even thornier than the first) as soon as I can.



Saturday 1 October 2005

and a special welcome to our foreign guests ...


I often ask myself the following question: "Am I too much of a cynic?" I'm never really sure. Let me tell you about my Saturday, and see what you think.

First, some context: since the day of my arrival here, I'd been seeing the signs posted up around school campuses: "Excursion to Sergiev Posad – see with your own eyes the glorious remains of what is carefully preserved by the Russians".

Okay; curiosity duly piqued. I'd never heard of Sergiev Posad. What was it? Where was it? Why were "the Russians" so keen to preserve it?

Fortunately the information I needed was pretty easy to come by; the Sergiev Posad excursion was the talk of the teaching fraternity. "Are you going?"; "Have you booked your seat yet?"; "Better get in quick! It's filling up." Then – once I'd established what it was (a heritage town with a big fat monastery in the middle of it) and how to book (pay your 850 roubles, or AUD$40, at one of the central campuses) – I started hearing things like "Ooh, you're going? Great! Charge up your camera, Anthony. You'll be taking plenty of photos". And the ads, still hanging around on walls even after every seat on the tour coach was full, had been calling to me all week. "Those who come with us will be rewarded with relaxation in the Russian countryside", they said.

It sounded like exactly what I needed after a trying week of lesson planning, disciplining unruly teens and far too little sleep. So, having finished class a little after 9pm last night, I hurried home on the Metro, snacked on some fruit, emptied my camera's memory card, set my alarm for 5:30am and fell into bed, utterly exhausted but eagerly anticipating my first chance to explore an ancient Russian townscape.

The flyers had very helpfully offered an estimated journey time to reach this cultural jewel: "One-and-a-half hours from Moscow", they'd advertised. This was confirmed as our coach pulled out of the parking lot behind Kitai Gorad Metro station, only 20 minutes behind schedule.

As it turned out, today was the day when I got my first taste of how time runs differently in Russia. Two-and-a-half hours after we'd left Kitai Gorad, a coach full of bemused, slightly travel-sick teachers and students emerged into sunlight, having survived an epic monologue delivered by a bearded woman in a frightening tartan jacket, who evidently considered herself a "tour guide". Beardie had spent the entire journey lecturing on such scintillating topics as Moscow's wondrous motorways, and castigating the Russian students for their poor knowledge of history. (They didn't know the name of some guy after whom one of Moscow's main streets is named - can you imagine?) Her tone was somewhere between the propaganda broadcasts of Nineteen Eighty-Four and school assembly announcements, and her microphone was held somewhere between her front teeth and her molars.

After alighting from the bus, we milled around outside the monastery for ages while the guide arranged … well, actually, I'm not quite sure what she was arranging. Some kind of bureaucratic Russian business was taking place, the nature of which remains a mystery. Meanwhile, I was told that I wasn’t allowed to take photos in the monastery's grounds unless I bought a 100 rouble permit, and that if I chose not to buy the permit I would have to hand in my camera. Hmmm.

It was also around this point when it became clear that our 'free time' in the town of Sergiev Posad had evaporated, and the monastery was all we were going to see.

After standing around a little longer, I eventually thought “bugger this!” and strided into the complex (with my camera still in my bag), just to see if all the waiting around was going to be worthwhile. It looked pretty uninspiring, to be honest, and it was drenched in tacky gold-plated Jesuses making lazy peace signs, bleeding-heart Marys and the usual collection of saintly effigies, all depicted in flat 2D Orthodox Icon style. So I basically walked out, abandoned my tour group and went wandering around the town instead.

This part of the day, though far too brief, was pretty cool. There was a pleasant town square in Sergiev Posad with a reasonable market, along with some nice downtown ‘green space’. (At times you could almost have been forgiven for thinking you were in Europe.) I grabbed a horrible takeaway coffee and strolled through wooded parkland, looking at local people as they relaxed on park benches and watching students with sketch pads. I found an outdoor museum where children and teens were learning how to paint matryoshki* and casting traditional Russian pottery. It was a pleasant hour of small but worthwhile discoveries.

When the appointed time rolled around, I met up with the group and we resumed our itinerary. Next stop: lunch at a local restaurant where I waited almost 15 minutes for an attendant to show me to the toilet, before being served a bowl of lukewarm soup … with a dead fly floating in it! That was followed by some unidentifiable, fatty slab of meat, dripping with grease and suitably accompanied by mashed potato with a reservoir of greyish fluid in the centre.

Mmmmm, nummy treats …

Back onto the bus after that, to head for a place called Abramtsevo. This was billed as a Russian heritage village. “Ahhh, good”, I thought. “We do get to see some non-churchy heritage stuff after all.” Except that we didn’t quite get there. Well, at least not for a very long while.

Travelling via the main street of Sergiev Posad, we were treated to more of Beardie's sparkling insights, beginning with “on ze light you ken see MekDonalds”. We veered onto a highway, then veered off again to wind down a pleasant old road lined with dachas**. Quite picturesque in its way. Shame it wasn’t here that our bus decided to break down; instead, it was a couple of miles further along the road, on a blind curve, adjacent to a messy expanse of ugly ‘farmland’.

We stood on the blind curve for about forty-five minutes while the driver tinkered with engine parts and Beardie dithered over what to do next. She then suddenly made up her mind, explained her decision (but only in Russian) and flagged down a passing local bus. The Russians in the group ran at the bus and boarded it, but the English-speakers – having not been told the plan – were a little slower to work out what they were meant to be doing. By the time they’d realised what was happening, the bus had disappeared. In other words, we’d been left behind in the middle of nowhere!

Eventually another bus came along and most of us caught it (though there were still a few people stranded on the roadside when I left). Some of us had to pay a fare, some didn’t – I really don’t know what happened there. But in any case, the bus managed to get us the rest of the way to Abramtsevo without tipping over (though it was a near thing). And we arrived just in time to be told the cheery news, which was this: due to lateness, we wouldn’t be getting the English-speaking tour we’d paid for.

Abramtsevo itself was a collection of traditional huts and churchy-type buildings with an art studio in one corner. All in all the complex was quite large, and thanks to our breakdown we had a bit over 45 minutes (as opposed to the intended two hours) to see the whole lot. So after lining up at the gate and getting our group ticket, we all filed in and followed the guide. She headed for the art studio, which seemed a reasonable first choice. The queue outside was so long, though, that many of us realised we wouldn’t get to see any of the other buildings if we stayed there, so we wandered off.

In all the other buildings we went to, babushkas in drab blue uniforms guarded the entrance hallways. To see the insides of the huts or churches, they insisted, it would be necessary for us to show the ticket we’d purchased at the gate. But of course, we only had a group ticket, which was held tightly in the hand of our tour guide, and she was still dutifully standing in line back at the art studio (perhaps enjoying some kind of weird queueing nostalgia associated with having grown up in the USSR). Result: no entry for us. Strangely enough, though, Russian people seemed free to come and go at their leisure while we “foreign guests” – to quote the sign on the replacement coach that took us back to Moscow – were barred.

Our Abramtsevo visit was capped off nicely while I sat talking to another teacher called Carol, waiting for the group to rendezvous at the front gate. Carol and myself were approached by a very friendly Russian girl, who told us she'd learned to speak English while living in the UK. She was curious and courteous and outgoing, and would've been quite likeable were it not for the fact that she kept leaning closer and closer to Carol's right ear as she spoke to us. I'm still not sure whether it was the ear itself exerting this strange fascination on our new friend, or whether she was trying to work out how to steal an earring while its owner was wearing it.

Fun, huh?

The journey back to Moscow on the "foreign guests" bus was spiced up by two more hours of Rambling Beardy's fabulous commentary, which left all of us more than ready for a drink or two in Kitai Gorad. And the whole day left me wondering about the question I put to you at the start of this entry.

So what do you think? Am I being a big fat cynic here, or does that sound like a pretty sad parody of a tourist excursion?

Either way, I think I might stay local next weekend :)



*matryoshki: the famous Russian 'nesting dolls' (mentioned once before on these pages).
*dacha: rustic summer house / weekender.